This Is What Fashion Nostalgia Looks Like at Istanbul Fashion Week

We’ve gotten used to seeing nostalgic pop culture imagery on the runways lately, specifically references to the 1990s and early 2000s. Leonardo DiCaprio and Kate Winslet’s Titanic ship bobbed up on a sweatshirt at Vetements in 2016. Some people saw Clueless references at Versace’s Spring 2018 show. And Virgil Abloh had both a Beastie Boys hoodie and a Weezer soundtrack at his Fall 2018 men’s show. Movies, songs, and celebrities share a universal language. Only some universes are smaller than others.
At Istanbul Fashion Week last night, designer Sansim Adali, who has a label called Sudietuz, showed a hoodie printed with an album cover of one of Turkey’s most popular alternative rock bands, Mor ve Ötesi (“Purple and Beyond”). Founded in 1995, the four-member, all-male group looks like a cross between Savage Garden and the Foo Fighters, and their music, which played during the show, sounds sort of like something in between. The album on Adali’s hoodie is titled World Lies, and after its 2004 release, it became one of the best-selling rock albums ever in Turkey. The band is also known for its anti-war and anti-capitalist lyrics, often performing at rallies around the country.
Few people from outside of Turkey would recognize the group, especially considering how quickly the sweatshirt came racing down the runway. After the show, a colleague asked a Turkish journalist who the men were on the hoodie. “Are they a boy band?” he inquired. The journalist seemed perplexed. “Like One Direction?” my colleague asked again. “Yes!” replied the journalist. A short Wikipedia search later and we realized we’d hit a bit of a language barrier. Mor ve Ötesi certainly isn’t One Direction, nor are they the Backstreet Boys or ’NSync or Savage Garden or the Foo Fighters. But unlike the boy band on Balenciaga’s Fall 2018 T-shirt, they are real and not meta-slash-made-up. To the locals, Mor ve Ötesi is a big deal, and in Istanbul, they got their fashion #TBT moment.
Location: London, UK

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